Radical Works

For most people, the beauty of an airplane's design lies in its lines and curves. For the flier, however, the beauty of a design includes what that design can do. That feeling is as true for R/C (radio control) pilots as it is for pilots of full-size aircraft. Their differences—aircraft size, and the fact that R/C pilots remain on the ground—have very little impact on the way given designs perform. As a result, R/C hobbyists have been able to model and fly aircraft that range from the Wright Brothers' first plane to the magnificent Space Shuttle.

To fly, an airplane's wing has to overcome gravity by developing lift greater than the weight of the plane. Since it can't do that standing still, airplanes use thrust...force directed backwards...to drive the wing forward through the air and generate lift. However, thrust has its own opposition to overcome in the form of drag—the resistance of the air to a body moving through it. If lift and thrust are greater than gravity and drag, you have the potential for flight...and fun Wing placement, for the most part, falls into two major categories—high wing design and low wing design. In a high wing design, the weight of the model is suspended below the wing. When the model tilts, the model's weight tries to return it to a level position. As a result, high-wing models tend to be more stable, easier to fly—and natural choices for trainers. A low-wing model is just the opposite. With its weight above the wing, it tends to be less stable—excellent for advanced fliers who want to perform rolls, loops and other aerobatic maneuvers Airfoil: If you face the wing tip of the plane and cut it from front to back, the cross section exposed would be the wing's airfoil. The Flat-Bottom Airfoil will develop the most lift at low speeds and helps return the model to upright when tilted. This is ideal for trainers and first-time pilots. A Symmetrical Airfoil's top and bottom have the same shape, allowing it to produce lift equally whether right side up or upside down and to transition between the two smoothly. This is recommended for advanced pilots. Lastly, a Semi-Symmetrical Airfoil is a combination of the other two and favored by intermediate and sport pilots. Wing Area/Wing Loading: Wing area is the amount of wing surface available to create lift. Wing loading is the weight that a given area of the wing has to lift and is usually measured in ounces per square foot. Generally, a light wing loading is best for beginners. The plane will perform better and be easier to control. Dihedral: Dihedral is the upward angle of the wings from the fuselage.Dihedral increases stability and decreases aerobatic ability.

Wing thickness — measured from top to bottom — determines how much drag is created. A thick wing creates more drag, causing slower speeds and gentler stalls and is ideal for beginners. A thin wing permits higher speeds and sudden stalls — desirable for racing and certain aerobatic maneuvers.

Tricycle gear includes a nose gear and two wing (main) gears, making takeoffs and landings easier—ideal for beginners.

The "size" of a model plane generally refers to the size of engine, in cubic inch displacement, required to fly it successfully. The most popular sizes are 20 (requiring a .20-.36 engine), 40 (.40-.53 engine) and 60 (.60-.75 engine). Many other sizes are available, too, ranging from small, .049-powered craft up to massive, giant-scale models.

What first attracts many would-be pilots to the idea of R/C flying is the thought of controlling a blistering-fast ducted fan jet or wicked WWII war bird. And there's no better way to put a quick END to your flying career than to start with such a model They're simply not designed for anyone who hasn't yet developed sharp piloting skills. Model plane styles are available that duplicate virtually every kind of full-size aircraft. The best ones for the first-timers are, without question, trainers and trainer-like sailplanes. These are specifically engineered to fly slowly and smoothly. They'll keep you out of trouble—giving you time to acquire the skill and confidence You'll need for those jets and warbirds.

Trainer

Intermediate

Biplane

Scale

Engines

Model planes can use several different types of power sources. Electric models carry battery-powered motors to turn the propeller. Gliders or sailplanes ride on thermal air currents (some also have electric motors for quick launching to great heights). Most R/C models, however, are powered by glow engines.

The most economical are basic 2-stroke engines with brass bushings supporting the crankshaft. For a little more power, you might choose a 2-stroke that uses ball bearings to support the crankshaft. The ball bearings also extend the life of the engine, so you can continue using it to power future models. The cost, however, is nearly twice that of a bushing-equipped engine.

Finally, there's the 4-stroke glow engine—slightly less powerful than 2-strokes of the same size and higher priced, but offering more torque, swinging bigger props, using less fuel and sounding much more realistic.

Accessories

When you buy a model airplane, you'll probably also need to buy a number of additional, inexpensive accessory items to make it flight-ready (those items are listed under the Accessories Required links for the plane you choose). These parts are traditionally left out of kits because the appropriate sizes depend on your choice of engine; also, experienced hobbyists may have a brand preference or already keep those parts in their workshop. Required accessories often include the following:

The adhesive-backed, plastic or fabric "skin" that surrounds a model airplane's structure, applied by a process of heating and stretching.

Rods that link your radio system's servos to the parts of the model that those servos move. They're often made of wire or a firm piece of balsa, fiberglass, or plastic, with a clevis fastener at the end.

Used to cushion the on-board radio equipment to protect it from engine vibration.

Applied where the wing fits onto the fuselage, to cushion the wing and prevent exhaust oils from entering the fuselage.

Small metal collars, which keep the plane’s wheels, positioned correctly on the axle.

Available in several styles, such as treaded, non-treaded, scale, and air-filled.

Plastic or aluminum cone mounted at the "nose" of the plane to improve looks and aerodynamics.

Reinforced structure, often made of nylon or aluminum, that allows your engine to be attached securely to the plane.

The sized used depends on the engine you select; therefore, these often are not included with the model.

Propellers are usually not included with the engine or the plane; also, your engine may or may not come with a muffler and glow plug.

Once your aircraft is chosen, built and covered, there's only one thing left to do...fly it! To do that, you'll need what we refer to as "flight line equipment"—such as fuel, a fuel pump, engine starting equipment and a few other basic tools. Except for the fuel, most flight line supplies are one-time purchases. You can use them throughout your modeling career, with as many different models as you fly.

Most modelers go to the field equipped with the following, all stored in a "flight box" for easy transport:

An electric device that gives your engine's glow plug the initial heat it needs to burn fuel

To move fuel from your gallon can or jug to the plane's fuel tank, available in hand-crank or electric-powered styles

A device for quick, easy engine starting, powered from the power panel (a small wooden dowel or "chicken stick" can also be used).

It's always a good idea to carry extras...without a spare, you might be forced to stop flying early.